Are you an aggressive driver?

	Name	Symptoms	Remedy
1	Obsessing about slow traffic	“At this rate we’ll never get there” , “I feel like I’m going backwards” , “Now I’m stuck behind this slow driver” etc.	Leave earlier; Give up getting there on time; Distract yourself with radio or music; Admire the scenery; Practice yoga breathing
2	Feeling combative with self-righteous indignation	“This jerk just cut me off gotta give him a piece of my mind” , “I don’t deserve to be pushed around” , “Nobody gives me the finger and gets away with it” “Nobody should fool with me and get away with it”; etc.	Make funny animal sounds; Make up some possible excuses for that driver; Think about your parents and children who might do the same thing; Think about being a saint
3	Feeling excessively competitive	“Darn, that guy made the light and I didn’t” , “How come that lane is faster than this one”	Tell yourself it’s just a habit from childhood to feel anxious about not winning, or being left behind; Remind yourself it feels good to be civil and helpful
4	Being over-critical	“Look at that idiot who forgets to turn off his signal” , “I can’t stand it the way he slows down and speeds up, slows down and speeds up” , “How can he pay attention to the road if he�s babbling on the phone”	Tell yourself it’s human to make mistakes; Recall to yourself your own mistakes; Remind yourself that patience is a virtue; Try to maneuver your car away from that car
5	Love of risk taking	“I like to go fast, but I’m careful” , “I can make this light if I speed up” , “I can squeeze into that opening if I time it right” , “I can insult that driver cause I can get away fast” , etc.	Think of your loved ones and how they would feel if something happened to you; Tell yourself you prefer to be a mature and prudent person

Driving Etiquette

Here are some simple Rules of the Road to remember the next time you go out:

• When driving, pay attention to the task at hand
• Do not stay in the left lane if you are going slower than the traffic to your right
• If you are not passing another car, remain in the right lane(s)
• If a car is approaching from the rear, flashing its lights, move over as soon as you are able
• Do not tailgate, leave a “2 second” space between you and the car ahead of you
• Do not slam on your brakes if a car is tailgating you
• Do not ride your brakes
• Do not change lanes if there is a car in the lane you want to move into going faster than you
• Be courteous to others, if you can’t make a move without obstructing others on the road don’t do it
• Check around your car when changing lanes in order to do so safely
• When entering an interstate, speed up to match the speed of the oncoming traffic before trying to merge
• When leaving an interstate, slow down only when you are totally in the deceleration lane
• When moving into a turn lane, wait until you are in the lane to brake
• When driving behind someone make sure your high beams are off
• Green means GO
• Red means STOP
• Blue means MOVE TO THE RIGHT (and if it follows you, it means you’re screwed)
• Use your blinker to signal a lane change, or a turn
• Do not forget to turn off your blinker
• When encountering a funeral procession, pull over to show respect for the deceased (unless you know the SOB, that is)
• And finally for all you tourists out there in happy-go-lucky land, plan your trip before you leave home so you know where you are going

Driving Tips for New Drivers

21 Smart Driving Tips for New Drivers:

You’re biggest risk of having a bad accident is within the first two years of you passing your driving test. Follow these hints and you can reduce this risk.

1. After passing your test it will be strange to find an empty front passenger seat. The first time you drive take someone with you for support. Think seriously about displaying a `P’ plate.
2. When you do have to drive completely alone, begin on roads that you know but remember to keep a road atlas in the car in case you get lost.
3. When you get your confidence, drive like you own the car, not the road!
4. You’ve learnt to drive and passed your test by sticking to the rules. Stay this way and you’ll stay alive ! So will your passengers and others on the road.
5. Your quick reactions won’t always stop you having an accident. Spotting and responding to problems ahead in plenty of time will.
6. Drive in a way that suits your ability and the traffic conditions. It doesn’t impress anybody if you drive fast in the wrong places and you could end up in a lot of trouble.
7. Have plenty of sleep, especially before making a big journey and take plenty of rest breaks to restore your alertness. Listen to the radio for traffic reports and make sure you’ve enough fuel.
8. Fiddling with the radio or a cassette when your driving can be distracting, so can playing your sound system so loud that you can’t hear the sirens of an emergency vehicle.
9. Give your mates a lift, but remember you’re the driver so you’re in control. Don’t succumb to peer pressure. If they give you hassle, drop them off at a bus stop!
10. Keep your eyes moving but don’t scare your passengers by turning your head away from the road ahead when talking to any of them!
11. Take motorway tuition and seriously think about advanced driver training. Research shows that it makes better drivers.
12. Driving a four wheel drive motor doesn’t suspend the laws of physics. You can still lose control if you ask too much of it.
13. Don’t leave valuables in your car where they can be seen because this invites a break in.
14. Keep space from aggressive drivers. Don’t get involved in trouble.
15. Be seen. Whenever you need to turn your windscreen wipers on switch your lights as well.
16. If you’re driving on a slippery or loose surface use the foot controls very gently.
17. Taking drugs and driving, like drinking alcohol before driving is a definite `No’..
18. Before driving abroad you need professional advice.
19. Keep some tools in your car !
20. If you’re driving alone, particularly if you’re a woman you should:
    a. Plan your journey properly and let somebody know your route.
    b. Carry a pen, paper, maps, first aid kit, torch, small change, warm clothing/blanket and a fire extinguisher.
    c. Carry a mobile phone (only for emergencies).
    d. Carry a personal attack alarm.
    e. Be sure that your car is in good order and join a recovery organization
21. If your vehicle breaks down, don’t panic. There are far more friendly people on the roads than those who would wish to harm you.
    * If you can, pull up where there are houses, street lighting and a telephone.
    * If you are somewhere remote you are at less risk if you stay inside your car. Use your mobile phone. If you have to walk take your personal attack alarm with you.
    * If a stranger does offers assistance, note their car number, keep your doors locked, speak to them through a closed window and send them to get help.

Coupons

Brakes

The modern automotive brake system has been refined for over 100 years and has become extremely dependable and efficient.

The typical brake system consists of disk brakes in front and either disk or drum brakes in the rear connected by a system of tubes and hoses that link the brake at each wheel to the master cylinder. Other systems that are connected with the brake system include the parking brakes, power brake booster and the anti-lock system.

When you step on the brake pedal, you are actually pushing against a plunger in the master cylinder, which forces hydraulic oil (brake fluid) through a series of tubes and hoses to the braking unit at each wheel. Since hydraulic fluid (or any fluid for that matter) cannot be compressed, pushing fluid through a pipe is just like pushing a steel bar through a pipe. Unlike a steel bar, however, fluid can be directed through many twists and turns on its way to its destination, arriving with the exact same motion and pressure that it started with. It is very important that the fluid is pure liquid and that there are no air bubbles in it. Air can compress, which causes a sponginess to the pedal and severely reduced braking efficiency. If air is suspected, then the system must be bled to remove the air. There are “bleeder screws” at each wheel cylinder and caliper for this purpose.

On a disk brake, the fluid from the master cylinder is forced into a caliper where it presses against a piston. The piston, in-turn, squeezes two brake pads against the disk (rotor), which is attached to the wheel, forcing it to slow down or stop.

This process is similar to a bicycle brake where two rubber pads rub against the wheel rim creating friction.

With drum brakes, fluid is forced into the wheel cylinder, which pushes the brake shoes out so that the friction linings are pressed against the drum, which is attached to the wheel, causing the wheel to stop.

In either case, the friction surfaces of the pads on a disk brake system, or the shoes on a drum brake convert the forward motion of the vehicle into heat. Heat is what causes the friction surfaces (linings) of the pads and shoes to eventually wear out and require replacement.

Let’s take a closer look at each of the components in a brake system and see where other problems can occur…

Master Cylinder

The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment on the firewall, directly in front of the driver’s seat. A typical master cylinder is actually two completely separate master cylinders in one housing, each handling two wheels. This way if one side fails, you will still be able to stop the car. The brake warning light on the dash will light if either side fails, alerting you to the problem. Master cylinders have become very reliable and rarely malfunction; however, the most common problem that they experience is an internal leak. This will cause the brake pedal to slowly sink to the floor when your foot applies steady pressure. Letting go of the pedal and immediately stepping on it again brings the pedal back to normal height.

Brake Fluid

Brake fluid is a special oil that has specific properties. It is designed to withstand cold temperatures without thickening as well as very high temperatures without boiling. (If the brake fluid should boil, it will cause you to have a spongy pedal and the car will be hard to stop.) Brake fluid must meet standards that are set by the Department of Transportation (DOT). The current standard is DOT-3, which has a boiling point of 460: F. But check your owners manual to see what your vehicle manufacturer recommends.

The brake fluid reservoir is on top of the master cylinder. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear. This is a normal condition and no cause for concern. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a high boiling point. Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture, which will lower that boiling point.
NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Any other type of oil or other fluid will react with the brake fluid and very quickly destroy the rubber seals in the brake system causing brake failure.

Brake Lines

The brake fluid travels from the master cylinder to the wheels through a series of steel tubes and reinforced rubber hoses. Rubber hoses are used only in places that require flexibility, such as at the front wheels, which move up and down as well as steer. The rest of the system uses non-corrosive seamless steel tubing with special fittings at all attachment points. If a steel line requires a repair, the best procedure is to replace the complete line. If this is not practical, a line can be repaired using special splice fittings that are made for brake system repair. You must never use brass “compression” fittings or copper tubing to repair a brake system. They are dangerous and illegal.

Other Components in the Hydraulic System

Proportioning valve or Equalizer Valve
These valves are mounted between the master cylinder and the rear wheels. They are designed to adjust the pressure between the front and rear brakes depending on how hard you are stopping. The shorter you stop, the more of the vehicle’s weight is transferred to the front wheels, in some cases, causing the rear to lift and the front to dive. These valves are designed to direct more pressure to the front and less pressure to the rear the harder you stop. This minimizes the chance of premature lockup at the rear wheels.

Pressure Differential Valve
This valve is usually mounted just below the master cylinder and is responsible for turning the brake warning light on when it detects a malfunction. It measures the pressure from the two sections of the master cylinder and compares them. Since it is mounted ahead of the proportioning or equalizer valve, the two pressures it detects should be equal. If it detects a difference, it means that there is probably a brake fluid leak somewhere in the system.

Combination Valve
The Combination valve is simply a proportioning valve and a pressure differential valve that is combined into one unit.

Electronic Brake Force Distribution
Newer cars use the antilock brake hardware and the onboard computer to replace these proportioning valve systems with a system called Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD) in order to distribute the exact amount of pressure at each wheel to insure a balanced brake system.

Disk Brakes

The disk brake is the best brake we have found so far. Disk brakes are used to stop everything from cars to locomotives and jumbo jets. Disk brakes wear longer, are less affected by water, are self adjusting, self cleaning, less prone to grabbing or pulling and stop better than any other system around. The main components of a disk brake are the Brake Pads, Rotor, Caliper and Caliper Support.

Brake Pads
There are two brake pads on each caliper. They are constructed of a metal “shoe” with the lining riveted or bonded to it. The pads are mounted in the caliper, one on each side of the rotor. Brake linings used to be made primarily of asbestos because of its heat absorbing properties and quiet operation; however, due to health risks, asbestos has been outlawed, so new materials are now being used. Brake pads wear out with use and must be replaced periodically. There are many types and qualities of pads available. The differences have to do with brake life (how long the new pads will last) and noise (how quiet they are when you step on the brake). Harder linings tend to last longer and stop better under heavy use but they may produce an irritating squeal when they are applied. Technicians that work on brakes usually have a favorite pad that gives a good compromise that their customers can live with.

Brake pads should be checked for wear periodically. If the lining wears down to the metal brake shoe, then you will have a “Metal-to-Metal” condition where the shoe rubs directly against the rotor causing severe damage and loss of braking efficiency. Some brake pads come with a “brake warning sensor” that will emit a squealing noise when the pads are worn to a point where they should be changed. This noise will usually be heard when your foot is off the brake and disappear when you step on the brake. If you hear this noise, have your brakes checked as soon as possible.

Rotor
The disk rotor is made of iron with highly machined surfaces where the brake pads contact it. Just as the brake pads wear out over time, the rotor also undergoes some wear, usually in the form of ridges and groves where the brake pad rubs against it. This wear pattern exactly matches the wear pattern of the pads as they seat themselves to the rotor. When the pads are replaced, the rotor must be machined smooth to allow the new pads to have an even contact surface to work with. Only a small amount of material can be machined off of a rotor before it becomes unusable and must be replaced. A minimum thickness measurement is stamped on every rotor and the technician doing the brake job will measure the rotor before and after machining it to make sure it doesn’t go below the legal minimum. If a rotor is cut below the minimum, it will not be able to handle the high heat that brakes normally generate. This will cause the brakes to “fade,” greatly reducing their effectiveness to a point where you may not be able to stop!

Caliper & Support
There are two main types of calipers: Floating calipers and fixed calipers. There are other configurations but these are the most popular. Calipers must be rebuilt or replaced if they show signs of leaking brake fluid.

Single Piston Floating Calipers are the most popular and also least costly to manufacture and service. A floating caliper “floats” or moves in a track in its support so that it can center itself over the rotor. As you apply brake pressure, the hydraulic fluid pushes in two directions. It forces the piston against the inner pad, which in turn pushes against the rotor. It also pushes the caliper in the opposite direction against the outer pad, pressing it against the other side of the rotor. Floating calipers are also available on some vehicles with two pistons mounted on the same side. Two piston floating calipers are found on more expensive cars and can provide an improved braking “feel”.

Four Piston Fixed Calipers are mounted rigidly to the support and are not allowed to move. Instead, there are two pistons on each side that press the pads against the rotor. Four piston calipers have a better feel and are more efficient, but are more expensive to produce and cost more to service. This type of caliper is usually found on more expensive luxury and high performance cars.

Drum Brakes

So if disk brakes are so great, how come we still have cars with drum brakes? The reason is cost. While all vehicles produced for many years have disk brakes on the front, drum brakes are cheaper to produce for the rear wheels. The main reason is the parking brake system. On drum brakes, adding a parking brake is the simple addition of a lever, while on disk brakes, we need a complete mechanism, in some cases, a complete mechanical drum brake assembly inside the disk brake rotor! Parking brakes must be a separate system that does not use hydraulics. It must be totally mechanical, but more on parking brakes later.

Drum brakes consist of a backing plate, brake shoes, brake drum, wheel cylinder, return springs and an automatic or self-adjusting system. When you apply the brakes, brake fluid is forced under pressure into the wheel cylinder, which in turn pushes the brake shoes into contact with the machined surface on the inside of the drum. When the pressure is released, return springs pull the shoes back to their rest position. As the brake linings wear, the shoes must travel a greater distance to reach the drum. When the distance reaches a certain point, a self-adjusting mechanism automatically reacts by adjusting the rest position of the shoes so that they are closer to the drum.

Brake Shoes
Like the disk pads, brake shoes consist of a steel shoe with the friction material or lining riveted or bonded to it. Also like disk pads, the linings eventually wear out and must be replaced. If the linings are allowed to wear through to the bare metal shoe, they will cause severe damage to the brake drum.

Backing Plate
The backing plate is what holds everything together. It attaches to the axle and forms a solid surface for the wheel cylinder, brake shoes and assorted hardware. It rarely causes any problems.

Brake Drum
Brake drums are made of iron and have a machined surface on the inside where the shoes make contact. Just as with disk rotors, brake drums will show signs of wear as the brake linings seat themselves against the machined surface of the drum. When new shoes are installed, the brake drum should be machined smooth. Brake drums have a maximum diameter specification that is stamped on the outside of the drum. When a drum is machined, it must never exceed that measurement. If the surface cannot be machined within that limit, the drum must be replaced.

Wheel Cylinder
The wheel cylinder consists of a cylinder that has two pistons, one on each side. Each piston has a rubber seal and a shaft that connects the piston with a brake shoe. When brake pressure is applied, the pistons are forced out pushing the shoes into contact with the drum. Wheel cylinders must be rebuilt or replaced if they show signs of leaking.

Return Springs
Return springs pull the brake shoes back to their rest position after the pressure is released from the wheel cylinder. If the springs are weak and do not return the shoes all the way, it will cause premature lining wear because the linings will remain in contact with the drum. A good technician will examine the springs during a brake job and recommend their replacement if they show signs of fatigue. On certain vehicles, the technician may recommend replacing them even if they look good as inexpensive insurance.

Self Adjusting System
The parts of a self adjusting system should be clean and move freely to insure that the brakes maintain their adjustment over the life of the linings. If the self adjusters stop working, you will notice that you will have to step down further and further on the brake pedal before you feel the brakes begin to engage. Disk brakes are self adjusting by nature and do not require any type of mechanism. When a technician performs a brake job, aside from checking the return springs, he will also clean and lubricate the self adjusting parts where necessary.

Parking Brakes

The parking brake (a.k.a. emergency brake) system controls the rear brakes through a series of steel cables that are connected to either a hand lever or a foot pedal. The idea is that the system is fully mechanical and completely bypasses the hydraulic system so that the vehicle can be brought to a stop even if there is a total brake failure.
On drum brakes, the cable pulls on a lever mounted in the rear brake and is directly connected to the brake shoes. this has the effect of bypassing the wheel cylinder and controlling the brakes directly.
Disk brakes on the rear wheels add additional complication for parking brake systems. There are two main designs for adding a mechanical parking brake to rear disk brakes. The first type uses the existing rear wheel caliper and adds a lever attached to a mechanical corkscrew device inside the caliper piston. When the parking brake cable pulls on the lever, this corkscrew device pushes the piston against the pads, thereby bypassing the hydraulic system, to stop the vehicle. This type of system is primarily used with single piston floating calipers, if the caliper is of the four piston fixed type, then that type of system can’t be used. The other system uses a complete mechanical drum brake unit mounted inside the rear rotor. The brake shoes on this system are connected to a lever that is pulled by the parking brake cable to activate the brakes. The brake “drum” is actually the inside part of the rear brake rotor.

On cars with automatic transmissions, the parking brake is rarely used. This can cause a couple of problems. The biggest problem is that the brake cables tend to get corroded and eventually seize up causing the parking brake to become inoperative. By using the parking brake from time to time, the cables stay clean and functional. Another problem comes from the fact that the self adjusting mechanism on certain brake systems uses the parking brake actuation to adjust the brakes. If the parking brake is never used, then the brakes never get adjusted.

Power Brake Booster

The power brake booster is mounted on the firewall directly behind the master cylinder and, along with the master cylinder, is directly connected with the brake pedal. Its purpose is to amplify the available foot pressure applied to the brake pedal so that the amount of foot pressure required to stop even the largest vehicle is minimal. Power for the booster comes from engine vacuum. The automobile engine produces vacuum as a by-product of normal operation and is freely available for use in powering accessories such as the power brake booster. Vacuum enters the booster through a check valve on the booster. The check valve is connected to the engine with a rubber hose and acts as a one-way valve that allows vacuum to enter the booster but does not let it escape. The booster is an empty shell that is divided into two chambers by a rubber diaphragm. There is a valve in the diaphragm that remains open while your foot is off the brake pedal so that vacuum is allowed to fill both chambers. When you step on the brake pedal, the valve in the diaphragm closes, separating the two chambers and another valve opens to allow air in the chamber on the brake pedal side. This is what provides the power assist. Power boosters are very reliable and cause few problems of their own, however, other things can contribute to a loss of power assist. In order to have power assist, the engine must be running. If the engine stalls or shuts off while you are driving, you will have a small reserve of power assist for two or three pedal applications but, after that, the brakes will be extremely hard to apply and you must put as much pressure as you can to bring the vehicle to a stop.

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)

The most efficient braking pressure takes place just before each wheel locks up. When you slam on the brakes in a panic stop and the wheels lock up, causing a screeching sound and leaving strips of rubber on the pavement, you do not stop the vehicle nearly as short as it is capable of stopping. Also, while the wheels are locked up, you loose all steering control so that, if you have an opportunity to steer around the obstacle, you will not be able to do so. Another problem occurs during an extended skid is that you will burn a patch of rubber off the tire, which causes a “flat spot” on the tread that will produce an annoying thumping sound as you drive.

Anti-lock brake systems solve this lockup problem by rapidly pumping the brakes whenever the system detects a wheel that is locked up. In most cases, only the wheel that is locked will be pumped, while full braking pressure stays available to the other wheels. This effect allows you to stop in the shortest amount of time while maintaining full steering control even if one or more wheels are on ice. The system uses a computer to monitor the speed of each wheel. When it detects that one or more wheels have stopped or are turning much slower than the remaining wheels, the computer sends a signal to momentarily remove and reapply or pulse the pressure to the affected wheels to allow them to continue turning. This “pumping” of the brakes occurs at ten or more times a second, far faster then a human can pump the brakes manually. If you step on the brakes hard enough to engage the anti-lock system, you may feel a strong vibration in the brake pedal. This is a normal condition and indicates that the system is working, however, it can be disconcerting to some people who don’t expect it. If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, read your owner’s manual to find out more about it.

The system consists of an electronic control unit, a hydraulic actuator, and wheel speed sensors at each wheel. If the control unit detects a malfunction in the system, it will illuminate an ABS warning light on the dash to let you know that there is a problem. If there is a problem, the anti-lock system will not function but the brakes will otherwise function normally.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning is perhaps one of the most terrifying things that can take place to any driver short of being engaged in a major collision. There you are, cruising along at fifty or sixty miles per hour in the rain, and all of a sudden your car is out of control. Several drivers don’t have a clue as to why their car abruptly ceased to respond to their turning of the steering wheel the application of the brakes. Frequently, drivers who are questioned after a crash caused by hydroplaning will state, “I don’t know what occurred, but I couldn’t control the vehicle.”

The one thing all hydroplaning problems have in common is the presence of water on the roadway. Here is what occurs when a hydroplaning vehicle is out of control: As the tires roll over the surface of a road that is wet after or during a heavy rain or when water has accumulated because of poor drainage, a wedge of water builds up just in front of the tire where it meets the road. If your tires are in good shape, they will flush away the wedge of water at lower speeds and allow the tire tread to grip the road for steering and braking. But when tires are worn or bald, the wedge of water does no get flushed away and the tires actually climb up on top of the wedge, losing contact with the road. Once the tires are floating on the water, the car is hydroplaning. The deeper the water, the more likely a hydroplane will occur. At slow speed, the tire simply squeezes the water away. At higher speeds, it is harder to flush away the water. Tires with deep tire treads and tires specifically designed as “rain tires” work best. But even the best tires may hydroplane at higher speeds. And worn tires may start to hydroplane at speeds as low as 30 mph. The best advice for any driver encountering water on the roadway is to slow down. It is nearly impossible to know the depth of water on a roadway. Aside from hydroplaning, driving fast into water may cause a splash that could momentarily blind you or a nearby driver. Hitting water at high speeds may also cause water to splash up under the hood and cause the engine to die out. That could leave you dangerously stranded on a busy lane where following cars have minimal control.

Again the most important thing to remember – no mater how good your tires are, no matter if you have antilock brakes, four-wheel drive or traction control – is to slow down!

Your best safeguard against a potentially out-of-control hydroplaning experience is to slow down to below 30 mph when the roadway is covered with water and to avoid any puddles of accumulated water on the roadway.

MINIMIZE YOUR RISK OF HYDROPLANING BY TAKING A FEW PRECAUTIONS:

*Make sure that all four of the tires on your car are in good condition. That means they must have a good amount of tread left that will allow water to be flushed out of the path of the tire as it meets the road. Ask your service dealer to measure the tire tread depth and advise you if it is adequate to keep you safe.

*In rainy weather, slow down to a safe speed. If need be, pull off the road in a dangerous downpour with limited visibility and a high risk of hydroplaning.

This content is provided to you by All Makes Automotive Services.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

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Dashboard Gauges

The minimum number of gauges on a passenger car dashboard is the speedometer and the fuel gauge. The most common additional gauge is the temperature gauge followed by the tachometer, voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. If your car does not have a temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge or charging system gauge, then you will have a warning light for these functions.

The most common configuration in today’s family car is: Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel & Temperature.

Typical instrument panel

Note: To find out more about the gauges on your car, the best source of information is your owner’s manual.

• Speedometer
  In the past, the most used of the gauges. The speedometer was usually driven by a cable that spins inside a flexible tube.  The cable is connected on one side to the speedometer, and on the other side to the speedometer gear inside the transmission.  Today, just about all vehicles have eliminated the cable and use an electronic sensor to measure wheel speed and send the signal to an electronically driven speedometer.

The accuracy of the speedometer can be affected by the size of the tires. If the tires are larger in diameter than original equipment, the speedometer will read that you are going slower then you actually are.  On older vehicles, another cause for inaccurate speed readings was an improper speedometer gear inside the transmission. This can sometimes happen after a replacement transmission has been installed.  Most good transmission shops are aware of this and will make sure that the correct speedometer gear is in the new transmission.

On vehicles with electronic speedometers, the computer has settings to for speedometer calibration when necessary, to allow a technician to adjust for different sized tires. These calibrations usually require specialized equipment like diagnostic scanners to do these types of adjustments.

• Fuel Gauge

Deliberately designed to be inaccurate! After you fill up the tank, the gauge will stay on full for a long time, then slowly drop until it reads 3/4 full. After that, it moves progressively faster until the last quarter of a tank seems to go very quickly. This is a bit of psychological slight-of-hand to give the impression that the car gets better gas mileage than it does, it seems to reduce the number of complaints from new car buyers during the first few weeks after they bought the car.
The fuel gauge shown here is probably more accurate than most. Notice the difference between 3/4 to full and empty to 1/4.
When the needle drops below E, there is usually 1 or 2 gallons left in reserve. To find out for sure, pull out your owner’s manual and find out how many gallons of gas your tank holds, then the next time you fill up an empty tank, check how many gallons it took to fill it. The difference is your reserve.
Note: It is not a good idea to let your tank drop below 1/4.  This is because your fuel pump is submerged in fuel at the bottom of the tank.  The liquid fuel helps to keep the fuel pump cool.  If the fuel level goes too low and uncovers the pump, the pump will run hotter than normal.  If you do this often enough, it can shorten the life of the fuel pump and eventually cause it to fail.

• Temperature Gauge or warning lamp
  This gauge measures the temperature of the engine coolant in degrees. When you first start the car, the gauge will read cold. If you turn the heater on when the engine is cold, it will blow cold air. When the gauge starts moving away from cold, you can then turn the heater on and get warm air. Most temperature gauges do not show degrees like the one pictured here. Instead they will read cold, hot, and have a normal range as pictured in the dash panel at the top of this page.

It is very important to monitor the temperature gauge to be sure that your engine is not overheating. If you notice that the gauge is reading much hotter than it usually is and the outside temperature is not unusually hot, have the cooling system checked as soon as possible. Note: If the temperature gauge moves all the way to hot, or if the temperature warning light comes on, the engine is overheating! Safely pull off the road and turn the engine off and let it cool. An overheating engine can quickly cause serious engine damage!

• Tachometer
  The tachometer measures how fast the engine is turning in RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). This information is useful if your car has a standard shift transmission and you want to shift at the optimum RPM for best fuel economy or best acceleration. One of the least used gauges on a car with an automatic transmission. You should never race your engine so fast that the tach moves into the red zone as this can cause engine damage. Some engines are protected by the engine computer from going into the red zone.  Usually, the tachometer shows single digit markings like 1, 2, 3 etc. Somewhere, you will also see an indicator that says RPM x 1000.  This means that you multiply the reading by 1000 to get the actual RPM, so if the needle is pointing to 2, the engine is running at 2000 RPM.
• Oil Pressure Gauge or warning lamp
  Measures engine oil pressure in pounds per square inch. Oil pressure is just as important to an engine as blood pressure is to a person. If you run an engine with no oil pressure even for less than a minute, you can easily destroy it. Most cars have an oil lamp that lights when oil pressure is dangerously low. If it comes on while you’re driving, stop the vehicle as soon as is safely possible and shut off the engine. Then, check the oil level and add oil as necessary.
• Charging system gauge or warning lamp
  The charging system is what provides the electrical current for your vehicle. Without a charging system, your battery will soon be depleted and your vehicle will shut down. The charging system gauge or warning lamp monitors the health of this system so that you have a warning of a problem before you get stuck.
  When a charging problem is indicated, you can still drive a short distance to find help unlike an oil pressure or coolant temperature problem which can cause serious engine damage if you continue to drive. The worst that can happen is that you get stuck in a bad location.
  A charging system warning lamp is a poor indicator of problems in that there are many charging problems that it will not recognize. If it does light while you are driving, it usually means the charging system is not working at all. The most common cause is a broken alternator belt.
  There are two types of gauges used to monitor charging systems: a voltmeter which measures system voltage and an ammeter which measures amperage going out of, or coming into the battery. Most modern cars that have gauges use a voltmeter because it is a much better indicator of charging system health. A voltmeter is usually the first tool a technician uses when checking out a charging system

A modern automobile has a 12 volt electrical system. A fully charged battery will read about 12.5 volts when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, the charging system takes over so that the voltmeter will read 14 to 14.5 volts and should stay there unless there is a heavy load on the electrical system such as wipers, lights, heater and rear defogger all operating together while the engine is idling at which time the voltage may drop. If the voltage drops below 12.5, it means that the battery is providing some of the current. You may notice that your dash lights dim at this point. If this happens for an extended period, the battery will run down and may not have enough of a charge to start the car after shutting it off. This should never happen with a healthy charging system because as soon as you step on the gas, the charging system will recharge the battery. If the voltage is constantly below 14 volts, you should have the system checked. If the voltage ever goes above 15 volts, there is a problem with the voltage regulator. Have the system checked as soon as possible as this “overcharging” condition can cause damage to your electrical system.

If you think of electricity as water, voltage is like water pressure, whereas amperage is like the volume of water. If you increase pressure, then more water will flow through a given size pipe, but if you increase the size of the pipe, more water will flow at a lower pressure. An ammeter will read from negative amperage when the battery is providing most of the current thereby depleting itself, to positive amperage if most of the current is coming from the charging system. If the battery is fully charged and there is minimal electrical demand, then the ammeter should read close to zero, but should always be on the positive side of zero. It is normal for the ammeter to read high positive amperage in order to recharge the battery after starting, but it should taper off in a few minutes. If it continues to read more than 10 or 20 amps even though the lights, wipers and other electrical devices are turned off, you may have a weak battery and should have it checked.

This content is provided to you by All Makes Automotive Services.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Maintenance Intervals

Vehicle System or Component	Check Monthly	Check Every 3,000 Miles	Service Notes
Automatic Transmission Fluid	Yes		Check level with engine running and transmission in park. If low, add type of ATF specified in owners’ manual and/or on dipstick. For best results change every two years or 24,000 miles
Battery and Cables		Yes	Battery should be securely mounted. Battery connections should be clean, tight and corrosion-free. If your car’s battery is three years old or more, it should be replaced
Belts		Yes	Check for looseness, cracks or glazing. Replace V-belts every four years/36,000 miles. Replace serpentine belts every four years/50,000 miles, or sooner if needed. Replace belt per interval specified in owner’s manual. Typically, this is at 60,000 miles. Not replacing the belt as required could cause a breakdown or serious engine damage
Brakes and Brake Fluid	Yes		For best results, have the entire brake system – including brake linings – inspected at every other oil change.
Cabin Air Filter			Replace annually, more often in areas with heavy airborne contaminants
Chassis Lubrication		Yes	Many newer cars are lubed-for-life, some still require this service. Replacement steering and suspension components require periodic lubrication.
Check Engine Light On	Yes		If light comes on while driving or remains on, your engine may have an emissions or sensor problem and should be checked by a professional technician. If light flashes, the condition is more severe and must be checked immediately to prevent catalytic converter damage.
Coolant (Antifreeze)	Yes		Check level at reservoir. Do not open hot radiator cap. If low, add 50/50 mix of approved antifreeze and distilled water.
Engine Air Filter		Yes	Replace yearly, or when dirty. Inspect annually, more often if driving and road conditions dictate.
Engine Oil and Filter	Yes	Yes	Check level with engine off at every fill up. Change oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 3 months. Use specified oil grade and weight.
Exhaust		Yes	Inspect for leaks, damage and broken supports or hangers if there is an unusual noise. If you suspect a problem, have it inspected immediately by a professional technician.
Fuel Filter		Yes	On carbureted cars, replace the filter once a year. On cars with fuel injection, replace the filter every two years or 24,000 miles.
Hoses		Yes	Inspect for leaks, cracks or bulges, sponginess, brittleness and swelling. Replace hoses at lease every four years.
Lights	Yes		Replace bulb immediately if light is out.
Power Steering Fluid		Yes	Check the fluid with the car warmed up. Add approved type if low. If regular topping off is required, have system inspected for leaks.
Shock Absorbers and Struts		Yes	Inspect for leaks, damage and loose mounting hardware. Replace if worn, damaged or leaking. Have checked by a professional at lease once a year.
Tire Inflation and Condition	Yes		Inflate tires to recommended pressure. Replace tires if worn or damaged. Remember to check the spare. Check pressure of all tires including the spare. Check tread for wear and for cuts or bruised along the sidewalls.
Windshield Washer Fluid	Yes		Check level every other fill up. Some vehicles have two reservoirs. Do not use water. Use washer fluid only.
Wiper Blades		Yes	Replace when streaking or chattering.

This content is provided to you by All Makes Automotive Services.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Helpful Tips

Today’s cars, light trucks, and sport-utility vehicles are high-tech marvels with digital dashboards, oxygen sensors, electronic computers, unibody construction, and more. They run better, longer, and more efficiently than models of years past.

But when it comes to repairs, some things stay the same. The following tips should help you along the way:

Do your homework before taking your vehicle in for repairs or service.

• Read the owner’s manual to learn about the vehicle’s systems and components.
• Follow the recommended service schedules.
• Keep a log of all repairs and service.

When you think about it, you know your car better than anyone else. You drive it every day and know how it feels and sounds when everything is right. So don’t ignore its warning signals.

Use all of your senses to inspect your car frequently. Check for:

• Unusual sounds, odors, drips, leaks, smoke, warning lights, gauge readings.
• Changes in acceleration, engine performance, gas mileage, fluid levels.
• Worn tires, belts, hoses.
• Problems in handling, braking, steering, vibrations.
• Note when the problem occurs.
• Is it constant or periodic?
• When the vehicle is cold or after the engine has warmed up?
• At all speeds? Only under acceleration? During braking? When shifting?
• When did the problem first start?

Once you are at our location, communicate your findings.

• Be prepared to describe the symptoms.
• Carry a written list of the symptoms that you can give us.
• Resist the temptation to suggest a specific course of repair. Just as you would with your physician, tell us where it hurts and how long it’s been that way, but let the technician diagnose and recommend a remedy.

Stay involved. . . Ask questions.

• Ask as many questions as you need. Do not be embarrassed to request lay definitions.
• Don’t rush the technician to make an on-the-spot diagnosis. You may ask to be called and apprised of the problem, course of action, and costs before work begins.
• Before you leave, be sure you understand all shop policies regarding labor rates, guarantees, and acceptable methods of payment.
• Leave a telephone number where you can be called.

This content is provided to you by All Makes Automotive Services.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

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