Maintenance Intervals

Vehicle System or Component	Check Monthly	Check Every 3,000 Miles	Service Notes
Automatic Transmission Fluid	Yes		Check level with engine running and transmission in park. If low, add type of ATF specified in owners’ manual and/or on dipstick. For best results change every two years or 24,000 miles
Battery and Cables		Yes	Battery should be securely mounted. Battery connections should be clean, tight and corrosion-free. If your car’s battery is three years old or more, it should be replaced
Belts		Yes	Check for looseness, cracks or glazing. Replace V-belts every four years/36,000 miles. Replace serpentine belts every four years/50,000 miles, or sooner if needed. Replace belt per interval specified in owner’s manual. Typically, this is at 60,000 miles. Not replacing the belt as required could cause a breakdown or serious engine damage
Brakes and Brake Fluid	Yes		For best results, have the entire brake system – including brake linings – inspected at every other oil change.
Cabin Air Filter			Replace annually, more often in areas with heavy airborne contaminants
Chassis Lubrication		Yes	Many newer cars are lubed-for-life, some still require this service. Replacement steering and suspension components require periodic lubrication.
Check Engine Light On	Yes		If light comes on while driving or remains on, your engine may have an emissions or sensor problem and should be checked by a professional technician. If light flashes, the condition is more severe and must be checked immediately to prevent catalytic converter damage.
Coolant (Antifreeze)	Yes		Check level at reservoir. Do not open hot radiator cap. If low, add 50/50 mix of approved antifreeze and distilled water.
Engine Air Filter		Yes	Replace yearly, or when dirty. Inspect annually, more often if driving and road conditions dictate.
Engine Oil and Filter	Yes	Yes	Check level with engine off at every fill up. Change oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 3 months. Use specified oil grade and weight.
Exhaust		Yes	Inspect for leaks, damage and broken supports or hangers if there is an unusual noise. If you suspect a problem, have it inspected immediately by a professional technician.
Fuel Filter		Yes	On carbureted cars, replace the filter once a year. On cars with fuel injection, replace the filter every two years or 24,000 miles.
Hoses		Yes	Inspect for leaks, cracks or bulges, sponginess, brittleness and swelling. Replace hoses at lease every four years.
Lights	Yes		Replace bulb immediately if light is out.
Power Steering Fluid		Yes	Check the fluid with the car warmed up. Add approved type if low. If regular topping off is required, have system inspected for leaks.
Shock Absorbers and Struts		Yes	Inspect for leaks, damage and loose mounting hardware. Replace if worn, damaged or leaking. Have checked by a professional at lease once a year.
Tire Inflation and Condition	Yes		Inflate tires to recommended pressure. Replace tires if worn or damaged. Remember to check the spare. Check pressure of all tires including the spare. Check tread for wear and for cuts or bruised along the sidewalls.
Windshield Washer Fluid	Yes		Check level every other fill up. Some vehicles have two reservoirs. Do not use water. Use washer fluid only.
Wiper Blades		Yes	Replace when streaking or chattering.

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All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Filters

There are a number of replaceable filters in a car. They are listed in your owners manual along with recommended replacement intervals. If you live in a dusty area or in a big city, then you should replace them more frequently.

The following filters are common to most cars:

* Air filter: used to filter the air going into an engine. This filter is usually easy to replace yourself.
* Fuel filter: found either in the engine compartment or near the gas tank. This filter is best left to your auto mechanic to change.
* Breather: works with the PCV valve to allow clean air to be drawn into the crankcase to purge moisture and acids from the engine.
* PCV Valve: works with engine vacuum to draw fumes from the crankcase and burns them in the combustion chamber.
* Cabin Filter: on a number of late model cars since the early ’90s, there is a filter in your air conditioning system that cleans the air before allowing it into the passenger compartment.  These filters are usually somewhere under the dash.  Your owner’s manual will tell you if you have one and where it is.

Check your owner’s manual for any other filters requiring servicing.

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Timing Belts

Certain engines with overhead camshafts have timing belts that have a limited life span. Car makers use these belts instead of more durable chains because chains are noisier and cost more to manufacture.  Your vehicle owner’s manual will recommend at what mileage the timing belt must be replaced.  These intervals range from every 60,000 miles to every 105,000 miles.

The job of the timing belt is to turn the camshaft(s) at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft while maintaining a precise alignment.  This means that the crankshaft will make two revolutions for every revolution of the camshaft.  Engines will have at least one camshaft, or as many as four camshafts in some of the V-type engines.  The camshaft causes the intake and exhaust valves to open and close in time with the pistons which move up and down in the cylinders.  The valves must open and close at exactly the right time in relationship to the piston movement in order for the engine to run properly.

There are two types of engines that use timing belts.  They are described as: “Interference Engines” and “Non-interference Engines”  The difference lies in the proximity between the valves and the pistons.  On an interference engine, if the timing belt slips even one notch, the piston can crash into an open valve causing serious engine damage by bending valves and breaking pistons.  Non-interference engines will usually not self destruct, but in either case if the belt fails, the engine will immediately shut down leaving you stranded.

Timing belts fail without warning and on some vehicles, are almost as hard to check as they are to change.  In most cases, your only protection is to change the belt at the recommended intervals. Timing belt replacement is not a cheap job but it is far less costly than the alternative.

Some technicians may recommend that you replace the water pump during a timing belt job even if there is nothing wrong with it.  This is because 90% of the labor to change the water pump has already been done with the timing belt job and some technicians consider it good insurance to replace the pump at this time.

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All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Winterizing

Corrosion inside the cooling system can cause failure of various components such as the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and heater control valve. The best way to prevent corrosion is to flush the cooling system periodically and replace the antifreeze. If the car has more than 60,000 miles, you should also consider replacing the thermostat and radiator cap as a preventative maintenance. Some modern engines cannot tolerate even a single bout of overheating without incurring serious damage like a blown head gasket. So everything you can do to prevent overheating is a plus.

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Engine Tune Up

Prior to 1975, a tune up consisted of replacing the plugs, points and condenser; then setting the timing, adjusting the carburetor and checking or replacing the cap, rotor, wires, gas filter, PCV valve and a host of other replaceable maintenance items. Today, computerized cars with electronic ignitions eliminate the points and condenser and adjust themselves at the rate of ten times per second.

The only items that need to be replaced on a regular basis are the spark plugs and certain filters such as the air filter, fuel filter, and some emission control filters. When the spark plugs are replaced the technician should check the ignition wires and the cap and rotor if your car has them. Some new cars are even equipped with platinum tipped spark plugs some of which last for 100,000 miles! If you have any questions about your specific vehicle needs, give us a call and we’ll be more than happy to help you!

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Tire Rotation

On front wheel drive cars, it is especially important to rotate your tires periodically because the front tires wear faster than the rear. Uneven tire tread thickness, front to rear, will give you uneven braking and poor handling, especially in the rain. If you don’t rotate the tires, you’ll wind up replacing them two at the time, which means you’ll always have uneven tread thickness. Replacing tires in a matched set of four will keep the handling and braking traction of the car balanced.

On certain cars, you may experience an additional problem when you do not rotate the tires: tire noise or humming on smooth roads. If you notice a humming noise, check the rear tires for a “saw-tooth” wear pattern on the inside and outside shoulder of the tire.  You can detect this by running your hand back and forth along the edges of the tire tread. Be careful not to cut yourself on debris or exposed steel belt wire. If it feels smooth in one direction, but jagged in the other, you may have found some of your noise. This condition happens on some front wheel drive vehicles with tires that have tread blocks on the shoulder of the tire. Rotating this tire to the other side of the car should even out this type of wear and quiet down the humming. Check your owner’s manual for the proper rotation method.

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All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Wheel Alignment & Wheel Balancing

Wheel alignment and Wheel Balancing are two totally different things, but many people often get them confused.  In a nutshell, wheel alignment consists of adjusting the angles of the wheels so that they are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other. The purpose of these adjustments is maximum tire life and a vehicle that tracks straight and true when driving along a straight and level road.  Wheel Balancing, on the other hand allows the tires and wheels to spin without causing any vibrations.  This is accomplished by checking for any heavy spots on the wheel-tire combination and compensating for it by placing a measured lead weight on the opposite site of the wheel from where the heavy spot is.

The symptoms of a car that is out of alignment are:

* Uneven or rapid tire wear
* Pulling or drifting away from a straight line
* Wandering on a straight level road
* Spokes of the steering wheel off to one side while driving on a straight and level road.

The symptoms of a wheel that is out of balance are:

* Vibration in the steering wheel at certain highway speeds.
* Vibration in the seat or floorboard at certain highway speeds.
* Scalloped or cupped wear pattern on the tires

Wheel Alignment: To find out if you need an alignment, first check each tire and look for uneven wear patterns. The problem with this method, however, is that if you can see a wear pattern like the ones listed below, it may be too late to save that tire. This is why it is a good idea to have your alignment checked periodically.

At each tire, take a coin and insert it in the tread at the inside, center and outside.

* Overinflated Tire - If the tread is deeper on the edges than in the center, the tire is over inflated.
* Under-inflated Tire – If the tread is deeper in the center than the edges, the tire is under inflated.
* Tire Wear from Wheel Alignment Problem - If the tread is deeper on one side than the other, have your wheel alignment checked soon. Run your hand back and forth across the tread, being careful not to cut yourself on any debris or exposed steel belt wire. If the tread is smooth in one direction, but jagged in the other you have what is called a “saw-tooth” wear pattern which is caused by a toe-in problem. Have the alignment checked as soon as possible as this condition causes rapid tire wear.

The first two conditions do not call for a wheel alignment but the second two do. If these wear patterns are pronounced, you should replace the tires or move them to the rear before aligning the car. Ask your alignment specialist to be sure.

Another indication of an out-of-alignment condition is a car that continuously drifts or pulls to one side of the road when you let go of the wheel. A car that is hard to keep in a straight line without constant steering corrections is also a candidate. These conditions may or may not also contribute to premature tire wear.

A wheel alignment cannot be done on a car with loose or worn front end parts. The technician will first check for worn parts and inform you of any problems before beginning the alignment.

The best type of wheel alignment is a four wheel alignment. Many cars today have adjustable rear alignment settings, but even for cars without adjustments in the rear, a four wheel alignment will allow the technician to identify any rear tracking problems and compensate for them with adjustments to the front.

After the wheel alignment is finished, you should drive the car on a straight and level road and check that the car goes straight and that the steering wheel is in the proper position with the spokes level. If you notice a problem, take the car back and have the technician drive it and fine-tune the alignment settings.

Wheel Balance: Out-of-balance tires will cause a car to vibrate at certain speeds, usually between 50 and 70 mph. A tire is out of balance when one section of the tire is heavier than the others. One ounce of imbalance on a front tire is enough to cause a noticeable vibration in the steering wheel at about 60 mph. To balance a wheel, the technician will mount it on a balancing machine which spins the wheel to locate the heavier part. He will then compensate for the heavy part by attaching a lead weight on the opposite side. Many people are pleasantly surprised at how smooth their car drives after balancing all four wheels.

Most high quality tires will hold their balance fairly well and go out of balance very gradually. If you notice a vibration that wasn’t there the day before, it is possible that one of the lead balancing weights fell off. If you feel the vibration mostly in the steering wheel, the problem is most likely in a front wheel. If the vibration is mostly in the seat, the problem is probably in the rear.

For those of you who are very sensitive about vibrations and your shop can’t seem to get that last bit of vibration out, check to see if you have locking wheel lugs. Some locking lugs are as much as 1.5 ounces heavier than the other lug nuts which translates to about 1/2 ounce at the wheel rim. Try putting a 1/2 ounce weight opposite the locking lug and see if it helps.

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Waxing Your Car

Regular waxing will keep a car looking new for many years. A ten-year-old car that has been waxed twice a year will probably have a better shine then when it was new. It will also command a higher resale value and be easier to sell.

If rain water does not bead on the painted surfaces of your car, it’s time to wax it. How often you have to wax your car is dependent on the type of wax you use and how good you want your car to look. Some of the new synthetic waxes will last more than a year.

Obviously, there are two ways to get the car waxed: have it done by someone or do it yourself. If you don’t mind spending about $160, check out an auto detail shop. They will clean the entire car inside and out, cleaning and waxing the body and shampooing the interior, right down to using a toothbrush to clean the seams in the dashboard. They will deep-clean the wheels and tires and make sure they remove any wax residue around the nameplates and emblems. Check with your local car wash or look in the Yellow Pages under “Automobile Detailing”.

If you decide to wax the car yourself, make sure you start with a clean car and never work in direct sunlight on a hot day. Before you start, run your hand over the surface, it should feel smooth like glass. If it feels rough or gritty like there are bits of sand embedded in the paint, then you should first use a non-abrasive cleaner to clean the paint before waxing.  One of the best methods that I have found uses clay to smooth the surface. Products such as Clay Magic & Meguiars Clay Detailer work beautifully with amazing results. Make sure you only use products designed for automotive finishes and follow the instructions on the container, I prefer to use 3M products. After you finish waxing the car, you should go over the entire surface to look for wax residue, especially around trim and body seems. A tooth brush or Q-tips work well for this. If your car has black trim, try to keep the wax away from it. Some waxes may leave a chalky film on dull black trim, such as rubber and some plastics, that can be hard to remove. Look for products that are made for cleaning black trim. I found them to work well and really let the black stand out.

Before beginning the job, examine the paint closely for chips and scratches and touch them up. Touch-up paint is available at most auto supply stores for the most popular paint colors. If you can’t find your color there, check with your new car dealer. If they don’t have it you may have to go to an auto body supply where they can match any color you might have (for a price). I always ask for a tube of touch-up paint when I buy a new car. That tube will usually last a few years if you only use it for chips and small scratches and keep it covered.  Make sure that you wipe the paint off the bottle before you put the lid back on or you will never get it off again. (I speak from experience)

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Washing Your Car

Environmental pollution, not to mention fallout from birds, will take its toll on your car’s finish. The best way to protect the finish is to keep it clean. This is especially true during the winter months in the snow belt where salt is used to keep the roads clear. While today’s cars have very durable finishes, they are susceptible to prolonged exposure to corrosives. I have seen new cars sitting in a dealers lot for two or three months that had to be refinished because the paint became etched from bird droppings.

If you have retractable headlights, make sure you clean them regularly. They are often overlooked when having your car washed.

A car wash will keep your car clean with a minimum of time and effort. The brushes they use are safer on a car’s finish than they used to be and many are brush-less. I don’t ask for wax at car washes because it may coat the windshield and cause the wipers to streak, but then I hand-wax my car twice a year. If you decide to wash the car yourself, use products that are safe for car finishes.

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All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

Under the Hood Checks

Do you know your way around under the hood of your car? While not as critical as it used to be, checking under the hood periodically can head off problems before they become costly. Today, with self service gas stations everywhere, often the only way you will get it done is for you to do it yourself.

Start by reading your owners manual. There will always be a section on under hood checks. Keep a pair of old gloves and a roll of paper towels in the trunk

First, a word about safety. Read the safety warnings in your owners manual and any safety warning stickers that may be under the hood.

If the engine has been running for any length of time, there are areas under the hood that can be very hot. Except for checking transmission fluid level, all checks should be done while the engine is turned off. If the engine is running, do not put your hands near any belts or fans. If you are not comfortable with touching a hot or running engine, then just do the checks that can be done with the engine cold and turned off and have someone else do the rest.

The following items should be checked periodically:

* Engine oil level
* Transmission fluid
* Brake fluid
* Power steering fluid
* Coolant (Antifreeze) level
* Battery
* Windshield washer solvent
* Belts & Hoses
* Windshield wiper blades
* Tires

* Engine oil level
This is the most important under-hood check you can do. An engine cannot run without oil even for a minute without serious engine damage or total destruction! To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for “Full” and another mark for “Add.” Check your owners manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it seats then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the “Add” mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the “Full” mark. Your main concern with this check is that oil consumption is not rapidly increasing. If it is, take your car to a repair shop as soon as possible and have it checked out. It is acceptable for the oil to be dark as long as you change it at the recommended intervals. However, it should never be foamy and should never have a strong gasoline smell. If either of these conditions exist, have it checked out soon.
* Transmission fluid
Most automatic transmissions should be checked while the engine is running. Check your owners manual to be sure. Also make sure the car is on a level surface and fully warmed up. Pull the transmission dipstick out, wipe off the end and note the markings on the end of the stick. The usual markings are “Full” and “Add 1 pint.” Push the stick into the tube until it seats, then immediately pull it out to see the fluid level. Transmission fluid should be pink or red in color with the look and consistency of cherry cough syrup. If the fluid is a muddy brown or has a burnt smell, have it checked by a mechanic. As with the engine, never add fluid unless it is below the “Add” mark and never bring it above the “Full” mark. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you plan to add Transmission fluid yourself, you should know that fluid usually comes in quarts, but the level may not be low enough to take the full quart. Also, you will need a special funnel to get the fluid into the small tube that the dipstick came out of. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid and do not substitute anything else. Any noticeable transmission oil consumption should be checked out at a repair shop.
* Brake fluid
The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood right in front of the steering wheel. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear out. This is a normal condition and you shouldn’t worry about it. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.
* Power steering fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir usually has a small dipstick attached to the cap. Remove the cap and check the fluid level. The level should not change more than the normal range on the stick. If you have to add fluid more than once or twice a year, then have the system checked for leaks. These systems are easily damaged if you drive while the fluid is very low. Another warning of low power steering fluid is a buzzing noise when you turn the steering wheel at slow speeds.
* Coolant (Antifreeze) level
Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running. The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. “FULL HOT” and “FULL COLD.” If the level frequently goes below “full cold” after adding fluid, you probably have a leak which should be checked as soon as possible. Today’s engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system.
* Battery
Most batteries today are “maintenance free” which simply means that you can’t check the water level. This doesn’t mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic.
* Windshield washer solvent
Windshield washer solvent is readily available by the gallon in auto supply stores as well as supermarkets and it is cheap. It is fine to use with or without adding water but will clean better undiluted. Never dilute it during winter months to insure that it retains its antifreeze protection.
* Belts & Hoses
In most cases your mechanic can check your belts and hoses when you bring in the car for an oil change. However, if you get your oil changed by some quick lube type centers, belts and hoses may not be on their list of items to check in which case you’re on your own. These checks are best done while the car is cold.

Belts are used to drive a number of components on an engine including: the water pump, power steering pump, air conditioner, alternator and an emission control pump. Some later model cars have a single “serpentine” belt that handles everything. This type of belt looks flat on one side with several ribs on the other side. You should check the ribbed side for signs of dry and cracked rubber. Serpentine belts are usually self adjusting and very durable. They should last about 30,000 miles. The other type of belt is called a “V” belt and is adjustable. There is usually more than one to an engine, sometimes three or four. Check each one for cracks and tightness and have them replaced if you find any problems. Some V belts are hard to reach but no less important so if you can’t reach it to check then have your mechanic do it periodically.

Hoses should be checked visually and by feel. You are looking for dry cracked rubber, especially at the ends where they are attached. You should also check the ends for any signs of ballooning.
* Windshield wiper blades
I think that every driver knows what it is like to drive in the rain with bad wiper blades. (I know… I’m not under the hood any more… stop being technical) Wiper blades should be changed every 6,000 to 10,000 miles. Wiper blades will tend to streak when they are dirty. Take a paper towel with some window cleaner and clean the rubber blade whenever you clean the windshield.
* Tires
Buy a decent tire gage and keep it in the car. Improper tire pressure can affect tire wear as well as ride and handling. You should always check your tires when they are cold. Use the manufacturers recommended tire pressures. Tire pressure tends to rise as you drive due to heat build-up. Manufacturers have this in mind when they set the recommended cold pressures so do not let air out when the tire gets hot. Check the tire again when it cools off and you will find that the pressure is back to where it was. Tire pressure will change with the seasons, so in winter months make sure they are not under inflated. Remember, always check them when they are cold.

This content is provided to you by All Makes Automotive Services.

All-Makes is the place to go for all your auto repair needs in Rio Rancho, NM.

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